Ring of Kerry, Ireland 4

Today was a day of fantastic driving and scenery  – what more can I say ! Except the weather didn’t quite play to the script !

When we woke this morning, the view from our window across Kenmare was quite encouraging – some cloud but a fair indication of blue sky and sun coming up. However, by the time we had finished breakfast and set off, it was a little gloomier. Undeterred, we headed for our first destination at Staigue Stone Fort.

Not a bad start to the day ….

The fort was located about 4km down a side road from the main road. When the main road is more like a back lane, you can imagine what a “side” road might be like ! However, as we were still reasonably early the traffic was pretty light and we only needed to negotiate one pull off into a clump of blackberry bushes along the “track” before reaching the fort. The fort is believed to have been built during the late Iron Age, probably somewhere between 300 and 400 AD, either as a defensive stronghold for a local lord or king or at least a wealthy mortal. The stone work is very impressive with the thick base supporting the high walls and internal terraces like steps enabling access to the higher levels, in a circular shape.

Staigue Stone Fort

We set of again down the “track” – which is barely wide enough for a small car and at one point found a campervan coming at us ! We managed to pull into a gate opening next to a paddock so he could get past but at the speed he was going he will still be trying to cover the remaining 3 1/2 km to the fort ! – and then he has to come back !

“Driving” in Ireland !

As we drove further west, the road ahead looked greyer and greyer but before the worst of it set in we got a couple more stops in. As we drove up and over the mountains near the coast we stopped at one of the lookouts –  Coomakesta Pass Lookout . Not a bad view even with the grey skies.

It is quite intriguing what things you find in your travels some times ! We passed through a town called Waterville which has a statue of Charlie Chaplin in the main street. Due to the town’s isolation, he and his family stayed here every year for many years as he found the isolation therapeutic and the locals treated him very well.

Before the worst of the weather arrived, we managed to find a spot to give the drone another go. Click here for a look 🚁 We had left the main “Ring of Kerry” and were on an extension loop onto the “Skellig Ring” – where the roads are so narrow that the big buses can’t do it at all. This loop leads right out to the end of the peninsula however with the weather we didn’t get it at its best at all. Still, the stop at Ballinskelligs Castle was very worthwhile. It hadn’t started raining at this stage and this little picturesque ruin sits on a small spit of land that extends out into the bay. With it’s nice little beach and no crowds here it was a good spot!

Ballinskelligs Castle

From here the weather started to get worse and we drove on up hilly roads into clouds and fog so we ended up skipping some of the things we had planned. The advertised “Best Sea Cliff Views in Kerry” unfortunately can’t be seen in fog and certainly not worth paying 4 Euro to look at fog !

We continued on in the rain and drizzle to the town of Killarney – which is the main large tourist town in the area. We stopped to have a bit of a walk around the town and to have a bit of lunch and a coffee. The rain had stopped at this stage as we were further inland and we drove into Killarney National Park to take a look at Ross Castle which sits on the edge of Lough Leane.

Ross Castle

Lough Leane – who let the ducks out !

Further on we stopped at an overlook called “Lady’s View” which looks down to lakes in the park. It is named after Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting who visited here during a royal visit in 1861.

Ladies at Lady’s View

We then went back to our base in Kenmare and decided to try the Coachmans pub ( another recommendation from our B&B host) for dinner. It was good food again and there was another duo playing great Irish music whilst we had dinner. This pub was a bit more “traditional” as far as the music went – the audience a lot quieter and the music was excellent ! One played the irish accordian, which has a great sound, and the other a guitar. This was really enjoyable.  We then strolled back to our hotel to set our sights on tomorrow’s travels.

Today’s Tour Trivia – Killarney National Park was the first in Ireland (1932) and has the only red deer herd on mainland Ireland