I think I’ve died and gone to heaven – today’s driving was such an experience and just spectacular !
After our couple of days on the Isle of Skye, we were heading back to the mainland today. Breakfasts in Portree have probably been the best so far – such fresh and local ingredients and offering a little difference to the “full Scottish breakfast”. The weather was looking encouraging as we left so the good/bad pattern was continuing.
Still some heather in the glens !
This time we were using the “land bridge” near Kyle of Lochalsh to leave Skye. There was great controversy when it was built as initially it was a toll bridge and the islanders were paying the equivalent of A$10 each way to cross a bridge less than half the size of the Sydney Harbour bridge ! After much protest and lobbying, the toll was removed.
Not far from the bridge, we made our way back to Eileen Donan Castle, a location we had visited on our 2007 tour. If you have seen any photograph of Scotland, it would be quite possible that it is this iconic castle as it is one of the most photographed sites in the UK ! And the weather today was almost perfect – blue skies and high tide – so absolutely picture perfect ! Of course complete with obligatory bagpiping busker to cap off the scene !
Eilean Donan castle
Our research found a vantage point giving a higher, less common view of the castle
Today also saw us start the driving on the “Northcoast 500” – a loop itinerary which Scottish Tourism is pushing to rival “Route 66” in the USA. It is certainly quite a drive as it twists and turns along the ruggard coastline of northern Scotland. So after skirting around Loch Carron our next stop was Strome Castle – a now picturesque ruin sitting on an outcrop above a beautiful peaceful bay.
The next section of our drive cut slightly cross country toward the coast, but took in one major part of the “500” – Applecross Pass – known as “Bealach na Ba”. The name is Scottish Gaelic for Pass of the Cattle, as it was historically used as a drovers’ road. It’s single track route – with “Passing Points” – zigzags up and down the spectacular mountain pass and reaching its peak you have views to the sea and the tiny town of Applecross below. Well one minute you do, the next you don’t – depending on the weather !
A bit bleak at the top of the pass for us today !
Driving these “single track routes” is quite an experience and with the influx of tourists seems to have become quite a bug bear with the locals. It takes quite a bit of concentration and planning as you drive however if you follow the guidelines it is really quite easy. It can find you reversing on occasions however it is all part of the experience. Our friends in Dalmally made it very clear – keep to the left and do not “park” in a passing point !
Well it seems that a lot of “tourists” don’t know or don’t follow the rules – the idiotic American women who “parked” in a passing point – AND got out of the car to take photos making it basically impossible for anyone else to get by in either direction – will have them ringing in her ears for some time after the mouthful of instructions she got from me !
The weather changed about 15 times on the way over the pass but by the time we reached Applecross it was quite clear again as we set off again.
The remainder of our sights for the day were really in the drive itself – hugging the coast for some parts and scaling mountain passes for others – all the while, for a large part of it, perfecting the “thankyou” wave for the “knowledgeable” passing point drivers. The trucks certainly have it worked out when the “uninitiated” make the wrong move – they just keep coming down the hill until they back up out of the way !
A bit clearer once we got to Applecross
At least the sheep keep to the Passing places !
We certainly found that although the distances are not huge, the driving times are fairly long as the twisting, narrow roads just don’t allow for the “normal” speed limits.
We arrived in Aultbea late in the afternoon, a very nice spot right on the bay. There isn’t much in the town – we walked along the “pebbly” beach in front of the hotel, taking a few photos as the sun went down then had a nice dinner in the restaurant.
Sunset at Aultbea
Tomorrow we move further northeast – heading for the tip of Scotland !
Today’s Tour Trivia – The tiny town of Aultbea has a NATO base – the jetty is designated a “Z-berth” allowing nuclear submarines to return for servicing without warning.
Spectacular photos of the Castle – amazed by all that blue. And great shot from on top of the hill! 😁👌
Very blue indeed – and it was high tide which helped ! 👌